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A wild and singular region, the Camargue offers colorful landscapes that are home to a unique flora and fauna, with thousands of protected species. It is also the heart of a strong cultural identity built around this untamed nature.

Located in the south of France, straddling the departments of Gard and Bouches-du-Rhône, the Camargue was formed by the action of the Rhône River, which divides into a delta and flows into the Mediterranean Sea. Bounded by Arles to the north, Aigues-Mortes to the west and Salin-de-Giraud to the east, the beating heart of the Camargue lies mainly around its capital, Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer.

The combined influences of the river and the sea have structured the region, creating numerous ponds, lagoons and marshes. It is these same influences that affect the salinity of the water, making the region ideal for salt production since ancient times.

Whether your interest lies in culture and history (towns and monuments, Camargue races and manades), landscapes and nature (marshes, salt marshes, horses, pink flamingos and other birds), good living (wines, rice, bull meat), or all three, we invite you to spend a few days in the Camargue to discover its riches!

What to see and do during your stay in the Camargue?

Sommaire

1 | Stroll around Aigues-Mortes, the fortified city

Aigues-Mortes is truly the historical nugget of the Camargue. We were captivated by this small town with its sun-drenched streets, built on a square plan and surrounded by magnificent ramparts. The town’s name comes from the Occitan term Aigas Mòrtas, or dead water (i.e. stagnant water). Because of the ramparts, you’ll have to pass through one of the town’s imposing gates to enter.

In fact, you can climb to the top of the ramparts for a tour. The view over the town, the canals and the salt marshes is truly breathtaking!

The pink salt pans stretch as far as the eye can see.

Tour of the towers and ramparts of Aigues-Mortes: €8 (free for under-25s and jobseekers)

Don’t miss the main square, where the statue of Saint-Louis stands proudly in the shade of the plane trees. On the same square is the Notre-Dame des Sablons church.

You can also contemplate the ramparts from the outside, and even walk along the salt marshes on a pedestrian pontoon.

2 | Marvel at the pink salt flats of Aigues-Mortes

Just a stone’s throw from the town of Aigues-Mortes, you can visit the Salins du Midi, also known as the Salins d’Aigues-Mortes. Please note, however, that the salterns are not pink all year round, but only in spring and summer.

These salt flats can be visited by train, bike or on foot. The train ride is interesting, and lasts around 1h15. The train driver takes the opportunity to act as a guide and give you some interesting facts about the salt works. Two stops punctuate this guided tour: the first to climb to the top of a camelle de sel (salt mountain), and the second at a small museum. These two stops will give you the opportunity to take fantastic photos of the saltworks, with the fortified town of Aigues-Mortes in the background.

Throughout the tour, you’ll be delighted to discover the superb pink expanses, and the different shades of the salt tables, depending on their concentration of seaweed and salt.

Visit the Aigues-Mortes salt marshes: on foot, by bike, train, 4×4, guided or unguided, there are many options to choose from. Find them all here. The salt works are open to the public between March and November only.

3 | Birdwatching at the Pont-de-Gau ornithological park

The Camargue is the land of horses and bulls, but also of birds, especially pink flamingos! To see them at their best, visit the Pont-de-Gau ornithological park, just a few kilometers from Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-mer.

There are two circuits through the park, punctuated by numerous observatories that blend into the landscape. You’ll be able to observe a large number of species evolving in the typical Camargue landscapes.

The pink hue of flamingos comes from the tiny pink shrimps they feed on. These same shrimps themselves take on the pink color of their favorite food: microscopic algae bursting with carotene, which thrive particularly in waters with a high salt content. In fact, it’s these same algae that give salt flats their pink color, and this color is found all along the food chain!

Parc ornithologique du Pont-de-Gau: €7.50 (€5 for children under 12) – entry times vary according to the season, but the outing lasts until sunset.

4 | Visit the capital of the Camargue: les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

The capital of the Camargue is not very big, and you’ll go there mainly for the Camargue-style seaside resort atmosphere. Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer has a multitude of restaurants and stores. The town center is easy to visit, but don’t hesitate to stay for lunch. It’s the ideal place if you’re in the area, and the atmosphere is really pleasant.

We weren’t able to visit the church, which was closed, or even go up to the roof (€3.50/person). Apparently, at the top of the narrow spiral staircase, you have a magnificent view of the town with its rooftops and arenas, the Mediterranean Sea and the Camargue.

5 | Discover a manade: immersion in Camargue culture

Visiting a manade in the Camargue is an opportunity to see the famous Camargue bulls up close, and also to observe the work done with the horses. We didn’t know what to expect from a visit to a manade, but we came away delighted with our morning spent at one of the best-known manades, the manade des Beaumelles.

We were able to enter the daily life of the manadiers and understand a little more about the traditions of a Camargue bull farm. During this immersion experience, we boarded a horse-drawn cart and got up close and personal with these fantastic animals, which are not totally domesticated. Our host Guillaume gave us a fascinating insight into the life of the manade, the job of a Camargue bull breeder, and how the Camargue races work. It was also a human encounter, giving us a better understanding of the daily life and passion of these people.

Contrary to popular belief, Camargue bulls are not bred for bullfighting. They are used for the Camargue race, which differs in every respect from bullfighting, particularly in terms of animal welfare. Their wild character is respected, they are not trained and gambol quietly over long stretches of meadow or marsh depending on the season. Camargue horses are also a pillar of Camargue culture. They are indispensable for approaching the bulls and bringing them peacefully from one meadow to another or into the arena. Their anatomy is specifically adapted to the wet, marshy environment of the Camargue, particularly their large hooves.

Once escorted to the arena, a bull remains there for 15 minutes, during which time the competitors (raseteurs) must steal various attributes attached to its horns. These include the red ribbon known as the cocarde, which also gives these bulls their nickname (cocardiers). Each attribute corresponds to a number of points and a bonus for the raseteurs.
The fervor in the arena, the enthusiasm and good humor in the streets are the sign of a tradition that is still very much alive. This strong identity is also part of the Camargue’s charm.

6 | Ride along Etang de Vaccarès to Plage de Piémasson

The roads in the Camargue are particularly beautiful, and take you through wild landscapes as you leave the main roads behind. The road around the Etang de Vaccarès to the Plage de Piémasson and the road between Saintes-Maries-de-la-mer and Aigues-Mortes are much more pleasant than the main road. This is where you’ll find the real Camargue landscapes, with white horses and black bulls contrasting with the green tones that envelop the region.

There are countless ponds and marshes in the Camargue. They form a veritable natural labyrinth and attract an incredible diversity of wildlife. This is one of France’s oldest and largest nature reserves. Birds move from one pond to another, and it’s difficult to predict their exact location. Nevertheless, the Etang de Vaccarès, the Etang du Fangassier and the Marais du Vigueirat are excellent places to observe the Camargue’s birdlife.

If you’ve got a bit of time, we’d also recommend a trip to Piémanson beach. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, this is the place to be, facing the sea. It’s also worth noting that part of the beach is naturist. Next to the beach is the Domaine de la Palissade, offering beautiful walks between the Rhône and the ponds.

7 | See the Salin-de-Giraud salt marshes

On our way up the Route de la Mer from Piémanson beach, we also stopped at the Salin-de-Giraud belvedere. From this vantage point, you can admire the salt marshes of Salin-de-Giraud, with a few camels in the distance.

The viewpoint is completely free of charge, and it is also possible to book a visit to the Salin-de-Giraud salt flats, for a fee.

Where to sleep in the region?

We stayed at the Mazet du Maréchal Ferrant guest house, 4km from Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Babeth welcomes you to this typically Camargue mazet with 3 bedrooms. Don’t expect a house where everything has its place, here objects are happily piled everywhere and contribute to the warm and authentic atmosphere. The decoration is mainly reserved for the horse. His son, Lorenzo, is an acrobat who performs in France and abroad. We spent a very pleasant evening over a drink with Babeth, who made us laugh with her joie de vivre and life experience! I recommend this guest house without hesitation. We’re even planning to return during the Christmas season, as the decorations are original and a must!

This is the name of the accommodation “le Mazet du Maréchal Ferrant” which you can find at Booking.