What to do in the north of Martinique?

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You’ll find plenty of articles extolling the beauty of southern Martinique. It’s all true, of course – the south of the island is full of beautiful scenery and there’s never a dull moment. In this article, I’d like to focus on the northern part of Martinique.

Indeed, it’s an essential stopover on your trip to the Flower Island. The north is wild and authentic, and everything is magnificent: the relief of Montagne Pelée, the lush vegetation of the rainforest, the isolated beaches and the villages lost in the heights.

Let me take you on a tour of the must-see sites in the northern part of Martinique. A visit that can last 3 days, or more!

What to do in the northern part of Martinique?

1 | Explore the Route de la Trace in the heart of the rainforest

The Route de la Trace (N3) was created to bypass the Pitons du Carbet and facilitate travel. It links Fort-de-France to Ajoupa-Bouillon over a distance of more than 40 kilometers through the rainforest and the Pitons du Carbet. Along the way, there are several stops worth making: the Sacré-Coeur Basilica, the magnificent Balata Gardens, the Saut du Gendarme waterfall and numerous hiking trails.

2 | Marvel at the Jardin de Balata

• Access: the garden is just a few minutes from downtown Fort-de-France, on the Route de la Trace, which also takes you to Saint Pierre and Le Carbet.

• Website: https://www.jardindebalata.fr

• Opening hours and prices: open daily from 9am to 6pm.
  14€ (adults) and 8€ (3-12yrs)

• Visit: 2 hours

One of the must-sees on your trip to Martinique: the Jardin de Balata. This incredible garden opened its doors in the 1990s and features over 200 species of tropical plants and flowers. There’s also a bamboo grove and a palm grove. You’ll usually have the chance to admire hummingbirds. In fact, I spent several long minutes taking photos of them!

And for those who want to appreciate the garden “from above”, there are suspension bridges 15 metres high in the trees.

3 | Walk to Cascade du Saut du Gendarme

To reach the Cascade du Saut du Gendarme, you’ll need to take the Route de la Trace from Jardin de Balata for around 20 minutes, then turn left towards Fonds-Saint-Denis to reach a small parking lot where you can drive up to the waterfall. This is a landscaped site, easily accessible from the parking lot. One of Martinique’s best-known waterfalls, it can be a victim of its own success.

4 | Stroll through the narrow streets of Saint-Pierre, a town with a tragic past

The town of Saint-Pierre is a must-see if you want to understand the tragedy that befell Martinique. On May 8, 1902, Montagne Pelée killed the 28,000 inhabitants of Saint-Pierre in less than a minute.
It was the deadliest volcanic eruption of the 20th century. But the natural disaster benefited from human complicity. The volcano had been active for months: destructive mudflows, ash showers, bubbling pools… Everything pointed to tragedy. The authorities refused to order evacuation, as the second round of parliamentary elections was approaching and voting had to be allowed to take place. They went so far as to forbid boats moored in the bay to weigh anchor.
On May 8, 1902, in the middle of mass, Montagne Pelée exploded, spewing out a wave of burning gas, rock and ash heated to over 1,000°C, destroying and killing everything in its path. Within moments, the blast had leveled the city, killing 28,000 people. Only two survived, including Cyparis, a prisoner protected by the thick walls of his dungeon. The town of Saint-Pierre was marked forever.

Today, Saint-Pierre, which has been completely rebuilt, has been designated a Town of Art and History. Stroll around the town and visit the few ruins dating back to the volcanic eruption.

5 | Admire the sunset from Anse Turin

Anse Turin, 5 km long, is a magnificent black-sand beach easily accessible from the town of Saint-Pierre. This beautiful beach is well known for its diving and snorkeling spots (there are several shipwrecks in the sea close to the beach), as well as for its sunset views.

6 | Visit Martinique Zoo

• Access: North of Anse Turin. From the N2, opposite Anse Latouche, follow the D62 for 100m.

• Website: https://www.zoodemartinique.com/

• Opening hours and prices: open daily from 9am to 6pm (last admission at 4:30pm).
  16.5€ (adults) and 9€ (children under 12)

• Visit: 1h30-2h

The Zoo de Martinique is a zoological, botanical and historical park, nestled in the ruins of the old Anse Latouche dwelling. Here you’ll find turtles, iguanas, raccoons, monkeys, jaguars, parrots, flamingos and lorikeets. You’ll enjoy discovering the animals in the heart of a park planted with cactus and palm trees, while walking on wooden footbridges.

7 | Discover the most beautiful black sand beaches

In the north-east of the island, there are 2 beautiful black sand beaches to discover: Anse Céron and Anse Couleuvre.

Anse Céron is one of the island’s most charming beaches, offering an idyllic setting for swimming or picnicking: crystal-clear waters, black sand and coconut palms.

To reach Anse couleuvre, a short walk is required. The black-sand cove is surrounded by two volcanic cliffs covered with tropical vegetation: the setting is wild and very calm.

8 | Hike to the summit of Montagne Pelée

Montagne Pelée is Martinique’s volcano! The volcano can be climbed on four different trails. Be aware that the trails have difficult sections and slippery terrain. For added safety, you can opt for a guided hike.

For lack of time, we didn’t hike to the top of the volcano. Another time!

9 | Take a walk with your feet in the water in the heart of the Gorges de la Falaise

• Access: well-marked entrance south of Ajoupa-Bouillon, on a hairpin bend to the left of the calvary. Free parking opposite the entrance.

• Contact : +596 596 53 35 61 – Closed on rainy days, please call them for information.

• Opening hours and prices: open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
  7€ (adult) and 4€ (child)

• Visit: 1h30-2h

• Note: please bring appropriate clothing: swimsuit, water shoes.

The penultimate stage of the Route de la Trace: the Gorges de la Falaise at Ajoupa-Bouillon. The “canyon” carved out of the rock is reached via a series of steep steps, each with its own ramp (which you’ll need to climb back up after the walk). This short hike follows the Falaise River and is done with a guide (it’s a round trip), accessible to all. It’s a fun walk, but not a must-do.

10 | Visit a rum distillery

The island is famous for its rum, and visiting a distillery is one of the must-do things to do in Martinique! There are several, but I’d like to recommend one in particular, located in the north of the island: the JM distillery.

Find out more in my article Rhum de Martinique : 5 distilleries à visiter.

11 | Drive to Grand Rivière, the village at the end of the world

The road to this village, also known as Martinique’s “end of the world”, is a journey in itself. Between cliffs and rainforest, narrow bends and metal bridges to cross, the route is very impressive but truly superb. Once you reach the village, you won’t be able to go any further by car! We really liked this fishing village, remote from everything, colorful and warm. It’s a wonderful discovery!

If you’re there for lunch, Chez Tante Arlette is a bit of an institution for a typical Creole meal. We loved it!

12 | Around the Caravelle peninsula

On the east coast, there’s another Martinique must-do, and a great hike: the Presqu’île de la Caravelle tour.

You can do the long trail or just the short one.

For our part, we hiked the long trail for half a day.

Access: to reach the start of the hike, follow the signs to Trinité, then follow those leading to the Château Dubuc ruins and the Presqu’île de la Caravelle nature reserve. You’ll have to pass the Tartane district.
There are two parking lots on site. Try to park in the parking lot closest to the château and don’t stop at the first. The parking lots aren’t very large, so it’s best to avoid them at weekends. Once you’ve parked, the long path starts directly to the left. The smaller path starts next to Château Dubuc, on the right, at the bottom of the slope.

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Where to sleep on the island of Martinique?

• “Villa Cocon Bleu, plage à pied Sainte Luce” which you can find on Booking (Sainte Luce – 8 people): charming, well-equipped villa. Featuring a swimming pool and Jacuzzi, it has pleasant rooms with air conditioning. The living room is spacious. The house is ideally located for visiting the south of the island. It is true to the photos, open to the outside.

• “Villa Patio Azur Les Trois îlets” which you can find on Booking (Les Trois-Îlets – 6 people): charming duplex house located in the peaceful Anse à l’Âne. It features an indoor patio with a large dining table, a living room and a private 4-seater Jacuzzi, providing the ideal setting for relaxation and conviviality.

• “Appartement pleine mer, face à la plage Saint Luce” which you can find on Booking (Sainte Luce – sleeps 4): Located on the top floor (only one floor to climb), this spacious apartment offers a breathtaking view of the Caribbean Sea. Enjoy direct access to a sandy beach! The residence, with its secure parking lot, also features a carbet and a communal green space.

• “Logement Pierre & Vacances Sainte Luce” which you can find on Booking (Saint-Anne): a lot of travel blogs recommend staying at the Pierre & Vacances village in Saint-Anne. It’s true that the location is superb, but the nights are quite expensive. It’s a budget to plan for.

• Little Joy House (Diamant – 2 people): I can wholeheartedly recommend this rental in Le Diamant, which is managed by Clarisse. The apartment is top-notch, very well equipped and laid out, clean and well located. You have access to a swimming pool which is part of the communal areas. Our favorite feature is the very pleasant terrace. In short, we really liked this apartment. Clarisse is a lovely host who welcomed us very well and was very accommodating. Many thanks again to her. (booking link) !

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Thanks for reading!

Mylène

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